civic si

[civicsi8]

i am looking into some more performance parts for my civic
its tuned at 10 psi
pushing 284 horsepower off stock pistons
i have ordered eagle rods and pistons and have a new ecu chip
what else could i get to make it push at least 300hp
hit me up asap...

[XtremeModifier]

tuned to 10psi doesn't tell me much. List everything you have...

idk where glen is, but I've worked on several imports (including a few of my own) trying to get some more hp, and have done so successfully. As I said, I need to know what you already have in there. what ecu chip - why not get a complete ecu? It's a honda, they're a dime a dozen, and lots of them out there, so the parts are common (vs my older mx6's, where nobody has them!)

[civicsi8]

see man thats what i dont have
i have no clue about cars my dad just gave me cash and i bought parts
i know it has eagle rods and new pistons
new exhaust
we had the head worked
turbo tuned at 10psi
the dyno showed 284 hp...
thats all i know sorry bro..
but if you could recommend some parts that be sweet thanks...

[XtremeModifier]

kids these days...

here's what I have to say. See, it's not like you buy this part or that part, and you'll run this time or that time. It's more of this part, that part, and a few others will work together.

let's take, for example, my '87 Firebird. I got a 13.75" filter (4" tall) with a filter on top to ensure I don't have any issues with getting enough air flow through the filter. Yes, I know, glen will bitch me out for going with K&N and what not, but yeah, I rebuilt the carb twice, can do it again, can clean the carb, so no big deal. And there's no sensors to flip out at me either.

Now, into the main parts:
Edlebrock Torker2 intake (pre-86 with custom-machined airgap done in-house)
Cleaned the intake (it was dirty, but cheap at $25)
Re-machined heads. Built internals for excess of 7000rpms (due to torker2, I need very high rpm's to make power). I can go through part-by-part, but I am quite busy finishing this up, and have no time. Let's just say we changed every seal, every valve guide, every rocker and spring, etc.
Cam - custom ground by J&B Performance. It's machined specifically for this motor and the pre-determined RPM range (2500-6500rpms powerband, reving up to 7500).
700R4 - B&M shift kit, rebuilt for high hp and torque, new springs for 7200rpm shift, to make sure we don't hit 7500.
New Torque Converter for 2200 lockup. It will be a tad sluggish coming off the line, but by the 60' I should be 100%. Still haven't tested any of this yet... dunno. I should go closer to 3000 for a hard, solid launch but I was low on cash, so I went with a lower lockup. It will hold, though.
Positrac (corvette) 3.55:1 rear gear. yes, it's a very low gear, but I have a neighbor with a good positrac, and he owed me a couple dozen favors, so I got it free. Can't beat free parts.
Driveshaft loop
Axle loops
SLP brake kit
SLP suspension kit
SLP steering kit
SLP exhaust (3" longtubes, 2.5" dual to rear axle, Y-pipe to hidden single outlet)
Formula V6 stickers and badge coming in the mail
350cid chevy small-block v8 from a '85 monte bored out 60, stroked to 389 (383 stroker kit)
I might have missed a few parts. Now, let's say I switch out that torker2 for a performer or performer rpm. All of a sudden, I'd have to pull my cam and heads (cam is machined a bit better for low rpms to allow for idling in the pits, but still not great) and swap those around, as they would no longer make any power (it would just be too low rpm and it would feel sluggish and run like junk). Also, the 650cfm holley (there, forgot that - Adjustable valve secondaries, 4bbl, elec. choke, single pumper) would have to be pulled for a 550 or 520cfm as it would just feed too much fuel.

That's why part balance is important. The same fuel pump in my old '92 mx6 turbo would make a '88 n/a mx6 in stock form run slower, while it's the perfect pump for that built turbo i4 I had. And that is why I need to know what parts you have in your car, and the engine specs would be helpful too. Otherwise, I just don't know what to tell you ... this is why car guys keep track of their parts, what services are done and when, etc. For example, I can't do a 3,000 mi oil change on my f-body - I change it every 100-200 miles. Meantime, the pickup (diesel) I have, with it's 10qt, I can go almost 8,000 miles between them and still have some room to spare.

now, time for you to go out, learn how to fix your car (as you will break it at the track eventually) and then learn about the parts. If you can list the parts, I can help you, otherwise, sadly, you're on your own. I am not going to be in Ohio again for another 3-4 months until Lapeer opens up, and even then, I don't plan to stop, especially with my trailer. And glen will agree with me - building a car for performance isn't about finding what parts someone else uses. For one, each car is different, and secondly, each driver (when it comes to tuning). The suspension setup that ryans or andrie might love (hartanto - he was on here years ago) could be entirely wrong for me or you. It doesn't mean any of us are wrong, it just means our driving styles are different - as well as how we want the car to react.

- JR

[civicsi8]

ok lol i see
i just drive the car i have no interest in finding out how it works or what goes into the car
my dad just buys the parts and i drive i think im am gonna take it to my man at slow motion motor sports columbus ohio and have him do some stuff to it
im sorry.. i cant list the parts my dad could but he doesnt have time if i can catch him off business ill ask him or if i can get to the shop ill ask dan our main guy at the shop and get you some answers
thx... for your help anyways bro...